Bourdeto at Cookoovaya. | Cookoovaya
Athens is a city of beautiful contradictions. Michelin-starred dining rooms share sidewalk space with decades-old taverns. Modern rooftop bars overlook 2,000-year-old monuments. Everywhere you look, the past and present converge to create an unparalleled multilayered metropolis.
Despite the city’s dexterity, travelers have long treated the Greek capital as little more than a pit stop between the airport and a ferry to the islands. But over the past few years, it’s emerged as a destination in its own right, not only for its star attraction, the Acropolis, but for the small, intimate pulses that fill everyday urban life: quiet morning coffee in a secret courtyard, the scent of bitter orange trees lining the streets, the sounds of celebration spilling from restaurant doorways.
Athens has been a power player in Western civilization for more than 5,000 years, giving history buffs plenty to see and do around town. But right now also feels like the perfect moment to experience the dining scene at its most intimate and intoxicating.
Before you go
When to visit: Athens enjoys mild weather for much of the year, but it’s worth avoiding the peak summer months, when high temperatures close outdoor archeological sites and heavy crowds overwhelm the streets. Catch the Athens Epidavrus Festival, which takes over venues across the city from spring to fall, and look for food festivals and open-air events that fill the shoulder seasons.
Area to stay: Consider the Psyrri neighborhood, which feels fresh and artistic, despite the ancient sites only a few minutes’ walk away. There are plenty of hotel options, like the Bellen Athens or Acropolis City Life. Look for a room on the top floor to secure a view of the Acropolis.
Getting around: There’s no need to rent a car. Walking around Athens is the best way to explore the city, and the subway system is quite handy. If you ever need a car, rely on apps, such as Uber, or private transfer service like the Greek Taxi.
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This summer, discover Athens, Greece with Lufthansa. Whether you are traveling for the coffee and strapatsada, fascinating art galleries, or ancient archaeological remains, Lufthansa gets you there in comfort and style. All it takes is a yes.
Day 1: From downtown streets to sunset views
9 a.m. Coffee and breakfast: Start your first day with a leisurely stroll to Picky, home to one of the city’s most charming outdoor patios. It’s a lush space to enjoy specialty coffee, smoothies, and a generous breakfast menu of shakshuka, acai bowls, and Greek kagianas (scrambled eggs with tomato and feta).
11:15 a.m. Shopping for stylish home souvenirs: Walk through Psyrri toward the historic, now gentrifying Plateia Anexartisias (aka Vathi Square) in search of unique souvenirs. Anthologist is the main draw for tablecloths and runners featuring traditional Greek patterns, alongside handmade ceramic plates, bowls, and water jugs that bring a distinctly Greek touch to your home. Lunch isn’t for a few hours, so head downstairs from the showroom for a snack at Zanoubia, a Syrian spot offering some of the city’s best falafel.
12 a.m. History is waiting: Just a short walk away, you’ll find the National Archaeological Museum, Athens’s largest, oldest (established 1829), and most important museum. It houses more than 11,000 exhibits spanning from prehistoric antiquity to the 4th century CE, including plenty of cooking utensils, agricultural tools, and depictions of ancient Greek daily life.
2:30 p.m. Time for lunch: Right next to the museum you’ll find To Rini, an interesting bistro where chef Marina Chrona blends tradition with modern Greek gastronomy. The minced rooster ragout and slow-cooked goat are pure comfort food, especially alongside a bottle of Greek wine.
4 p.m. Coffee and dessert to go: After lunch, stop by Portatif for a coffee and a piece of the red velvet cake. The fluffy sponge and rich cream cheese frosting will only make you want more.
6 p.m. City views with a stunning sunset: You can summit Lycabettus, the highest hill in the center of Athens, in three ways: on foot, by cable car (from Kolonaki), or by car. At the top, you’ll find a small church dedicated to Saint Georgios and the Lycabettus Theatre, which hosts a variety of events every summer, but the real reward is the sweeping panorama view at sunset. Be warned: It’s often swarming with canoodling couples.
8:30 p.m. Seafood for dinner: Descend to the posh Kolonaki neighborhood, home to high-end boutiques and Papadakis Restaurant, where celebrity chef Argiro Barbarigou delivers the flavors of her hometown on the island of Paros. Start with the octopus with honey and fried potato chips, followed by the kakavia (fisherman’s soup) or one of the groupers (classic with lemon fricassee or modern with truffles). Papadakis is known for hosting famous customers, like Jean Paul Gaultier and Carla Bruni, so keep your eyes peeled.
11 p.m. A drink to end the day: Head back to the heart of Athens, where many bars stay open until late, and follow the voices to Baba Au Rum (No. 27 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list). Customers spill onto the street, enjoying cocktails that showcase local ingredients. Try the tsipouro-based Lost Lovers or the experimental Unapologetic Skyline featuring feta cheese — which is better than it sounds.
Day 2: Markets, Museums and Open-Air Cinema
9 a.m. Coffee and plants: Pull up a designer chair next to a large fiddle-leaf fig or rare monstera plant at Minu, a multiconcept green space near the Thissio train station. Expect specialty coffee, turmeric lattes, and spirulina smoothies, alongside seasonal brunch items ranging from tuna tostadas to Basque cheesecake.
11 a.m. Shop the central market: Walk 10 minutes through Monastiraki Square to reach Varvakios Agora, the central food market, likely the loudest place in downtown Athens. Vendors from around the country crowd into the space, which has been the market’s home since 1886, competing for attention with shouts that echo through the aisles. Outside on Evripidou Street, you’ll find spices like boukovo (crushed red pepper flakes) and herbs like oregano and thyme from the Greek mountains — ideal souvenirs to enhance your next stew.
12 a.m. Visit an island without leaving the city: Walk up bustling Panepistimiou Street to the Museum of Cycladic Art, where you can learn about the civilizations that flourished in the Aegean Sea and Cycladic islands. See the famous marble figurines, vases, and everyday tools. Afterwards, grab some refreshment at the Cycladic Café, which is set in a beautiful indoor garden.
2 p.m. A lunch to remember: A 15-minute walk to the charming Ilisia neighborhood will deliver you to Cookoovaya, where chef Periklis Koskinas, born and raised on the island of Corfu, delivers a seafood-heavy, seasonal menu. Consider the bianco (fish cooked with potatoes in a creamy, peppery broth) or the bourdeto (fish soup, full of caramelized onions, dyed crimson by generous helpings of red pepper).
4 p.m. Explore the streets: Walk along Ermou, Athens’s main shopping street, where you’ll find a mix of buskers, international fashion brands, and everyday essentials. Look for Alexandrakis, one of the area’s oldest shops, established in 1860. Or try Aiolou Street (which intersects Ermou) for the legendary textile sellers overflowing with colorful rolls of silk, linen, and lace. Stop at Matsouka for high-quality chocolates and traditional Greek products. And hunt through the Monastiraki flea market for antique ceramics, handwoven rugs, military memorabilia, rare first editions, and vintage toys. If you need a break, the unique courtyard at TAF (the Art Foundation) is a great stop. Then head back to your hotel to freshen up.
7 p.m. Fine dining above ancient ruins: Return to Monastiraki and head to Astiggos Street, right next to the ruins of Stoa Poikile, where you’ll find Makris Athens, a Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Petros Dimas. The menu focuses on modern Greek cuisine, and the kitchen sources fresh vegetables and herbs from Dimas’s family farm in Corinth almost daily. Choose one of the three tasting menus: the eight-course Genesis ($135), 10-course Utopia ($194), or 9-course vegan Physis ($147). Expect playful items, like mushroom soup served in a cappuccino cup, alongside entrees like lamb aged for seven days, served with wild asparagus. The glass floor in the basement reveals part of ancient Athens beneath your feet.
9 p.m. Movie under the stars: After dinner, head to Cine Thision or Cine Paris, two of the city’s most beloved open-air cinemas (open early May through late October). Both offer spectacular Acropolis views alongside movies in English or Greek (with subtitles). Grab a pack of popcorn or some nachos, order a local beer or a Greek digestif like ouzo or tsipouro, and enjoy the show.
11 p.m. Japan meets Athens: If you’re still in the mood for more, Birdman is a Tokyo-style bar and grill where you can relax to the sounds of Japanese jazz or Salsoul disco while sipping cocktails inspired by East Asia, like the signature Ume Bloody Mary. Should hunger strike, Birdman serves one of the best burgers in the city, and it’s known for skewers featuring unconventional-for-Athens cuts.
Day 3: Ancient landmarks and contemporary Athens
8 a.m. Quiet coffee below the Acropolis: Start as early as possible to have the whitewashed alleys and blooming bougainvillea of Anafiotika to yourself before the crowds arrive. Stop for a morning coffee at Anafiotika Cafe and try the traditional strapatsada with scrambled eggs, tomato, feta cheese, and herbs; or order some Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and nuts, and enjoy the rare silence.
1 p.m. A quick refreshment: Only a few minutes down the hill, Little Tree Books & Coffee is a perfect place to regroup. The small cafe and bookstore invites customers to browse the shelves for cookbooks (mostly focused on Greek cuisine) and Greek literature translated into English, while sipping a house-made lemonade.
9:30 a.m. Ancient Athens and must-see sights: Once you’re well-fueled, get in an early visit to the Acropolis Museum, and take time to explore the archaeological remains of the ancient neighborhood that stretches underneath. Then pass by the Odeon of Herodes Atticus along Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, and climb the Acropolis to make your obligatory stops at the Parthenon, Erechtheion, and other iconic monuments. Be sure to book tickets in advance.
2:30 p.m. Greek lunch with a twist: Ateno Cook & Deli reimagines Greek cuisine, not only in flavor but in presentation. Order the signature moussaka, gemista (stuffed tomato), or the “hidden” Greek salad. Pair your meal with a glass of Greek wine from the award-winning list.
4 p.m. Coffee, dessert, and a walk: Stroll through Mitropoleos Street for a quick stop at 72H, a new-age bakery popular among locals for its soft, chewy cinnamon rolls. Then head to Syntagma Square to watch the impressive changing of the presidential guards at the Greek Parliament, which takes place every hour. Then enjoy the shade beneath thousands of Washingtonia palms and eucalyptus in the National Garden.
5:30 p.m. A quick, classic bite: You can’t leave Athens without tasting souvlaki. O Kostas is one of the last old-school spots in the city center, producing juicy skewers of pork or beef swaddled in warm pita. Join the crowd of local construction workers, suits, and students for a simple, satisfying snack, before heading back to your hotel to get ready for the evening.
7 p.m. Evening stroll by the water: Hop on the shuttle bus to visit the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in the city’s southern suburbs. Explore the park and canal on the grounds, see the new home of the National Library and the Greek National Opera, and check out any public lectures, exhibitions, or film screenings.
8:30 p.m. Farewell dinner: Head up to the two-Michelin-starred Delta Restaurant inside the SNFCC, considered the best restaurant in Greece by La Liste. Head chef George Papazacharias presents a 12-course menu (about $280) in which dishes are rarely what they initially seem. The sea urchin, for instance, is actually a potato and squid ink shell around a filling of bottarga, sea buckthorn, and pickled rosehip. The “edible insect” for dessert — a caterpillar made of chilled chervil, served with a soft cookie flavored with preserved nobilis pine — is a memorable last bite.
11 p.m. One last nightcap: Take a taxi to Line Athens, ranked No. 8 on the World’s 50 Best Bars. Set inside one of Greece’s oldest art galleries, the bar offers signature cocktails that might blend Irish whiskey, fig, coconut whey, and spices for a light, refreshing finish to the trip.